North American flyings squirrels are small, nocturnal rodents capable of gliding long distances. They have a long history of being kept in captivity and are relatively tame animals. However, in the United States there are a limited number of breeders. There do not appear to be any breeders of non-native flying squirrels in the United States. From the breeders I've spoken with, they are not as easily bred in captivity as domestic rodents. One breeder told me they only began breeding when moved then to a garage where they experienced more natural fluctuations in temperature. Another keeps the squirrels outside year round. My own squirrels are breeding indoors but we allow the tempertures to cool in the winter, have windows where they can experience natural light cycles, and put any artificial lights on a timer that is fixed to the sunrise/sunset of the outdoors. It is probably best to allow some natural simulation of photoperiod and temperature if one is hoping to breed them. You can also find various groups pertaining to flying squirrels and a forum called the Squirrel Board. I recommend your first source of information be the breeder you are working with to obtain your squirrels.
Do flying squirrels make good pets?
Whether or not a flying squirrel makes a good pet depends on you. Flying squirrels are different than many other pets. They are not cuddly like a cat or a dog (then again neither are all cats or dogs). They will climb on you, run on you, and jump on you, and generally they love to play with their human companions, but they may also scurry away from you, especially in the beginning. If you wear a loose fitting fleece jacket or hoodie, they will hide inside it during daylight hours. You may want to wear an undershirt to prevent scratching from their nails. They primarily use their human companions like a tree to jump on and climb on. In general most flying squirrels will let you pet them, but rarely there may be one the nips fingers. Remember these are tiny rodents, you can't fling them off of you and need to control your reactions if this happens. Blowing on them will make them release.
They can chew wood, electrical cords, or disappear into crevices in homes (thus it's not safe just to have them running loose in your home). They cannot be left in their cages and ignored other than food, water, and cleaning the same way a snake could be. They will need to be taken out for additional exercise and stimulation. When on vacation, you'll need to have someone trained to change their water bowls, clean their cages, and know what to do should the squirrel jump on them or out of the cage (less likely if they can come during the day). They are generally social animals and best kept with at least one other squirrel of the same sex, but if you take them out daily they will be fine alone. They are not legal in all states, so you'll need to check applicable laws if you decide to have a pet flying squirrel. In summary, the positives are they are cute, entertaining, and very interesting animals that are relatively tame and enjoy interacting with humans but the negatives are that they are not legal everywhere, there are limited numbers of breeders, they require more care than most reptiles and more specialized care than a cat or dog, and finding a knowledgeable vet takes more effort. If you're looking for something like a cat or dog, it's best just to get a cat or dog. If you're looking for something that's requires much more careful attention, requires daily attention (it would be cruel to leave it stuck in its cage for days on end, these animals are highly active), you don't mind being peed or popped on (it will happen and you cannot "train" them not to), you're willing to be consistent and careful, and want an animal likes to climb all over you, then a flying squirrel might be a good choice.
Enclosures
If you've decided to obtain a flying squirrel, you will need to find a suitable enclosure. It will need to have 1/2" bar spacing. They can squeeze out of larger bar spacing and/or have dental problems resulting from it. The cage will also need to be large as flying squirrels climb and glide and need a large amount of space. The minimum cage size I would recommend is a Midwest Critter Nation double cage. The ferret nation cage has a larger bar spacing which is not suitable for southern flying squirrels, so it's important to make sure it's the critter nation cage. The single is too small and does not allow room for gliding, climbing. The Midwest cages are durable and heavy duty. There are cheaper cages but they are made of much thinner material, the bars are thinner and may break if not handled with care over time. The powder coating may wear off and I am told exposed bars can cause fatal zinc poisoning if chewed on according to some sources (I have no idea how to verify this claim). Be sure to check with other squirrel keepers when choosing an enclosure. Midwest critter nation is the most frequently used cage at the time of writing. Another option is to make a cage with wood and hardware cloth. These cages will likely be heaver and harder to move around than Midwest cages, but they can be built even larger. If going this route, an advantage would be to make a cage so large you could walk into it and interact with the squirrels. Keep in mind squirrels chew on wood, so any wood not covered in hardware cloth is potentially going to be chewed on. Speaking with a breeder who houses his animals outside, I was told that there were also initially issues with snakes getting into the cages and eating squirrels, so you'll have to make sure there is no way for mice, rats, or snakes to get in, as well as that no medium to large mammals can open doors or force their way in looking for food if keeping squirrels outside. Some people use a set of double doors on the entry so that if an animal does get past one door when entering the enclosure, they are still trapped inside a second area. Use care when closing any doors to make sure a squirrel is not on or in the doorway, and care when opening doors that a squirrel will not fly out immediately. Southern Flying squirrels are mouse sized animals, so even a small gap will allow for escape, and the hardware cloth has to be carefully placed so not sharp edges remain exposed. If you're not very handy, it will be much easier to purchase an enclosure. I have seen some cages zip tied together for sugar gliders. I would not recommend this at all. Squirrels can easily chew through zip ties and such cages are poorly designed. A small pet carrier and fleece sack will also be very useful for initially bringing your squirrel home and transporting to vet visits. For controlling the photoperiod, a Kasa smartplug like this one can be set to your sunrise and sunset (requires wifi connection to the Internet). Most commercial light controllers are set to operate in the opposite fashion, turning the lights on at sunset rather than off, so the Kasa smartplug is very useful as it can turn the lights off at sunset and back on at sunrise.
Dealing with waste
You will need to decide how to deal with waste. The two typical options are to leave the bars exposed and let the wastes fall through into a litter pan with carefresh small animal bedding under the enclosure or to use a covering on the bottom bars and shelves. Either option works well. There are a number of individuals who make covers for the critter nation shelves and bottoms. I would recommend two sets, so that while one is being washed, the other can be placed into the cage. Without the covers the plastic pans will be chewed up very quickly. I recommend the envelope style covers as the snap on covers are easier for the squirrels to work their way under. If you're letting the waste fall through, the carefresh can simply be replaced every couple of days and the bars cleaned off for any residue remaining, If you're using the coverings, you'll want to get a small, quiet handheld sweeper and sweep up the droppings daily. The covers will need be washed every few days. Squirrels can be potty trained to a certain degree. The easiest way is to place a litter pan with carefresh bedding where they are already going to be bathroom. These litter pan's are made to attach to the corner of the cage and have a coated wire set of bars that keeps the animal from coming into direct contact with the bedding. Squirrels also tend to use the bathroom while running in their wheel, so if using a bottom cover, I would recommend adding some small strips of material under the wheel that can be replaced and washed more frequently. I have also found they like to use sugar glider corner hammocks as litter bins.
Providing water
Large, open bowls are not good with flying squirrels. They have been known to drown in open containers and toilets (keeping the lid closed is a good idea as escapes can happen and consider building a ladder in case it is left open by mistake). Squirrels can drink from small vessels of water. Squirrels will also use hanging water bottles made for small animals. I use Lixit glass water bottles like this one. It is possible for the metal balls of those devices to stick, so if using the hanging water bottles, I would always provide two and test them regularly with your finger tip to make sure they are providing water. In "Caring for your flying squirrel", author Anne B. Miller recommends using a water silo or water tube made for hamsters. However, in reading reviews of those devices, I found similar complaints to the ball typed types with regards to water leaking or not releasing at all. I've had two brand new ball tip water bottles not work right out of the box, so do not assume because it's new it is functional. When you rub the ball with your dry finger tip you should feel water droplets come out and see air bubbles rising. The water should be changed every 24 hours to prevent bacteria from building up. Be careful of any water vessels that have a door on top (some bird watering devices) - flying squirrels can open those doors! Such a vessel containing device would have to be on the outside of the cage.
Toys, houses, and decoration
Most of my current squirrels use a wheel nightly. Most wheels on the market are not safe for squirrels and can cause direct harm or issues over time from being the wrong size. The wheel I am currently using and recommending is the Velociraptor Type R with mesh and cage mount for horizontal bars . The rat version uses metal rather than plastic tracks which means it is chew proof and less likely for feces to stick to it. I recommend mounting it directly to the cage with a PVC cage mount (you purchase this with the wheel and it attaches with hooks and zip ties - pull the zip ties tight leaving no gap that a squirrels foot can be caught in). You should leave 5 fingers of space around all sides, under, and above the wheel to prevent injury. It is best to provide two houses. These can be wooden boxes with a hole in them similar to bird houses which are attached securely to the cage or fleece cubes that attach to the ceiling of the cage. Cut up sections of fleece will allow them to stuff their houses to their needs. As mentioned earlier, squirrels like to chew on wood, so putting in some pieces of pesticide free apple wood, which you can gather or purchase, a piece of deer antler, and a piece of cuttlebone are good ideas. These are actually fake cuttlebones on the market that are concoctions of calcium glued together. I would not recommend those at all. If using cuttlebone, please make sure to purchase authentic products. Not all woods are safe, so please consult lists of safe woods for squirrels. You can purchase apple wood sticks or collect Hickory and other safe woods from pesticide free areas (check for ticks and harmful insects). Not all tree branches, leaves, and buds are safe, so be sure to do some research first. There are also fleece tunnels, hammocks, and so on that will provide additional enrichment. Not all sewing techniques are safe. There are groups that check for safe sewing for sugar gliders. I suggest consulting their lists before deciding on a vendor.
Feeding
Adult, weaned squirrels are easy to feed. However, they need to be fed a proper diet or diseases such as MBD are likely to occur. The most important aspect of their diet is that they are eating a block suitable for squirrels. Mouse and rat diets are suitable. Teklad and Mazuri are good brands. Some people also offer some Zupreem Monkey biscuits. In addition to the dried rodent blocks, many people have found Henry's healthy blocks or Henry's picky blocks to be useful. Squirrels will sometimes not eat enough blocks (this should be 75-80% of their diet), so Henry's frozen blocks can be given to help ensure proper nutrition. The Henry's blocks are kept frozen and thawed just before feeding. I feed one Henry's squirrel block per flying squirrel per day along with Mazuri Mouse and Rat diet (you can find small bags at pet stores). In deciding what vegetables to feed, I suggest you consult this list created by Henry's pets. Thoroughly wash all fruits and vegetables before feeding. Remember that over-supplementing can be just as bad as under-supplementing, so if you're sure they are already eating their Henry's block daily and they have access to Mazuri blocks, you won't need to provide additional vitamins or supplementation. If you feed too many nuts, the squirrels are likely to not eat their blocks. However, squirrels can have a few nuts. I like to use shelled nuts so they wear their teeth down. Hazelnuts are small, hard, and useful for this purpose. There are reports of problems from feeding too many Brazil nuts, so I do not need them at all. All nuts fed should be in good condition and stored properly, as molds (some fatal) and other disease can develop in nuts with damaged shells, old, or improperly stored. If collecting walnuts or hickory nuts, I would suggest taking them directly off of the trees and not off the ground, inspecting them for insect damage. People have lost squirrels from acorns that were moldy inside. On the other hand, Art of TN Flyers told me that he collects acorns without issue by taking them directly off the trees and making sure it's not their only source of food.
If you have a young flying squirrel that is not yet weaned, it is a little more complicated. You will need a Miracle nipple tip, a 1/2ml to 1ml O-ring syringe (do not use a larger syringe, much of the information you will find pertains to grey squirrels which are much larger), and you will need a milk replacer formula such as Fox Valley for squirrels 4 weeks and older. Another breeder I spoke with uses meyenberg whole powdered goat milk (available at Walmart) which is human grade and mixes it at 1 part formula to 2 parts water with good success. Since the majority of rehabbers are using fox valley, I have chosen to use that. You can find these supplies at Henry's pets or Chris's Squirrels. Never use cow's milk with baby animals. If you have a squirrel younger than 4 weeks old, consult a wildlife rehabber or the squirrel board forum for assistance. It is important to feed only the correct amount, to never feed too quickly as this will cause aspiration which can kill the animal or lead to respiratory infections. As mentioned earlier, most of the advice on the Internet will be geared toward grey squirrels. The syringes will be too big, the amounts will be far too much, and the formula will be fed too fast for a tiny flying squirrel in comparison. It is critical that any resource you reference is specific to flying squirrels in regards to the amounts fed. The milk replacer needs to be made and replaced every couple of days, must be kept refrigerated, and should always be at least a few hours old before being used. It must be thoroughly mixed with warm (but not boiling) water and stored in an air tight container in a refrigerator. I use a fork to thoroughly mix the ingredients and allow them to settle for a minimum of four hours and preferably overnight before use (studies show the particles continue to mix over time). Small amounts are then removed and heated as needed just prior to use. The formula should be warm but not hot before use. I have asked various wildlife rehabbers about temperature and I've gotten anywhere from 95F to the highest anyone has told me 120F degrees. I warm the milk replacer in water around 110F. I think it is safe to say warm but not hot is a good measure to shoot for so I use a temp gun as well as testing the warmth against my skin. I will refer you to experienced wildlife rehabbers for more detailed information on that. If too hot, it could burn the animals delicate mouth, but if too cold they may not be enticed to consume the required amounts of milk replacer. Here is a handy chart to help you determine how much to feed a southern flying squirrel based on it's weight (a gram accurate kitchen scale is essential, you have to weigh young squirrels often). Since the squirrel board feeding cheat sheet is based on weight, it also works for flying squirrels. You want to feed at an upward angle and never with the animal on it's back or at an downward angle, see this video of a grey squirrel being fed (note the syringe is way, way too large for a flying squirrel). Use a good quality o-Ring syringe which won't stick like cheap ones and never try to force material out of the syringe while the animal is feeding (will result in a large release). Flying squirrels will lap the milk off the end of the syringe, they shouldn't suck the whole nipple in as in that video. Additional information about raising baby squirrels can be found here (ignore the amounts to feed, that is for grey squirrels) and on the squirrel board forum. Again unless a resource specifically mentions flying squirrels, it will be for grey squirrels which are much larger. Very young squirrels will also need stimulation to go to the bathroom (see squirrel board forums for more information on this). Check with the breeder to find out if the animal is still requiring stimulation. You can find videos demonstrating this, but essentually you rub their genitial region with a Qtip with warm water or petrolium jelly. You can also use a cotton ball dipped in warm water and ringed out. Be sure to dry the squirrel before putting it back away. Additional information on raising flying squirrels can be found here. Finally, if the squirrel is less than 6-7 weeks old it would also require access to a heat source. I use a 10 gallon tank with a screen cover, a no shut-off heating pad under half of it, a thermostat probe between the bottom of the glass and heatpad secured with shipping tape, an old tshirt on the bottom, and layers of cut up fleece strips with another tshirt on top. If the young squirrels want to be warmer. they can burrow down and if they want to be cooler they will stay toward the top or move to the unheated end. As you can see, raising a flying squirrel that is not yet weaned is a little bit complicated. Once you've done it once, it is very simple, but gathering all of the initial information and making sure you understand it, is a little bit tricky. A good idea would be to volunteer to help a local wildlife society or rehabber in raising orphaned wildlife. You would be gaining skills and knowledge and contributing to a good cause at the same time. You would then feel far more confident in raising your young squirrel, but it is not so difficult that you cannot learn it on your own as long as you've done proper research. Additionally, there are non-releasable and adult flying squirrels that need new homes from time to time, bypassing this process.
Safely interacting with your squirrel
You'll need to make your home as squirrel proof as possible in case of escape. Most importantly, you'll need to make the room you plan on interacting with them in extremely squirrel proof. All holes in walls, around heating pipes, etc should be sealed off. Stuffing steel wool or using specific chew proof mesh will keep squirrels from disappearing into those holes and keep mice (which carry diseases transmittable to both humans and squirrels) out. It's a good idea to seal off any such places to keep mice out of your home or from moving about your home in any event. A pool noodle can be fitted underneath the door to make escape more difficult. Be careful of opening and closing doors when a squirrel is out, they can jump in the way of the door closing very quickly. All electrical cords need to be kept away from squirrels and squirrel cages (they like to chew on wires). All toilet bowls should be kept closed as flying squirrels can easily drown. A ladder can also be placed in the toilet. A mosquito popup net tent made from non-treated materials is a much easier way to interact with the squirrels. They can run inside the tent and climb and jump without fear of escape as the tents zip closed.
Bonding
It is important to spend time safely interacting with your squirrel to develop a bond with them. Do not overlook the importance of the bonding process. The difference between a squirrel that will climb in your hand and allow itself to be petted and one that will leap away from you and be difficult to get back into its cage comes down to this process. This is why most breeders separate the young from the mother before they are fully weaned. However, that alone is not sufficient. Even if you obtain the squirrel at 5 to 7 weeks old, you will still need to spend time with it. I would recommend using both a tent and a bonding pouch. You can sit in the tent during daylight hours and let the squirrel climb inside your shirt. climb onto your hand, etc, and at night they become much more active as the weeks go on. I also typically have brief interactions, petting them and letting them climb on my hand for a moment, during routine cage maintenance. Of course, they need sleep and time left alone, too, but I interact with them daily.
I hope this helps jump start those who wish to keep flying squirrels as pets. Again, I am not an expert on these animals and this guide should only be a starting place in your research. I would recommend spending some time on the squirrel board forums and obtaining the book "Caring for your Flying Squirrel" by Anne B. Miller. S&S Exotics had some copies of the book when I last checked. Purchase flying squirrels from reputable breeders and seek their advice on how to house and care for your new pet. Flying squirrels, much like reptiles, can make great pets but only if you invest the time into the proper research before you obtain them.
Do flying squirrels make good pets?
Whether or not a flying squirrel makes a good pet depends on you. Flying squirrels are different than many other pets. They are not cuddly like a cat or a dog (then again neither are all cats or dogs). They will climb on you, run on you, and jump on you, and generally they love to play with their human companions, but they may also scurry away from you, especially in the beginning. If you wear a loose fitting fleece jacket or hoodie, they will hide inside it during daylight hours. You may want to wear an undershirt to prevent scratching from their nails. They primarily use their human companions like a tree to jump on and climb on. In general most flying squirrels will let you pet them, but rarely there may be one the nips fingers. Remember these are tiny rodents, you can't fling them off of you and need to control your reactions if this happens. Blowing on them will make them release.
They can chew wood, electrical cords, or disappear into crevices in homes (thus it's not safe just to have them running loose in your home). They cannot be left in their cages and ignored other than food, water, and cleaning the same way a snake could be. They will need to be taken out for additional exercise and stimulation. When on vacation, you'll need to have someone trained to change their water bowls, clean their cages, and know what to do should the squirrel jump on them or out of the cage (less likely if they can come during the day). They are generally social animals and best kept with at least one other squirrel of the same sex, but if you take them out daily they will be fine alone. They are not legal in all states, so you'll need to check applicable laws if you decide to have a pet flying squirrel. In summary, the positives are they are cute, entertaining, and very interesting animals that are relatively tame and enjoy interacting with humans but the negatives are that they are not legal everywhere, there are limited numbers of breeders, they require more care than most reptiles and more specialized care than a cat or dog, and finding a knowledgeable vet takes more effort. If you're looking for something like a cat or dog, it's best just to get a cat or dog. If you're looking for something that's requires much more careful attention, requires daily attention (it would be cruel to leave it stuck in its cage for days on end, these animals are highly active), you don't mind being peed or popped on (it will happen and you cannot "train" them not to), you're willing to be consistent and careful, and want an animal likes to climb all over you, then a flying squirrel might be a good choice.
Enclosures
If you've decided to obtain a flying squirrel, you will need to find a suitable enclosure. It will need to have 1/2" bar spacing. They can squeeze out of larger bar spacing and/or have dental problems resulting from it. The cage will also need to be large as flying squirrels climb and glide and need a large amount of space. The minimum cage size I would recommend is a Midwest Critter Nation double cage. The ferret nation cage has a larger bar spacing which is not suitable for southern flying squirrels, so it's important to make sure it's the critter nation cage. The single is too small and does not allow room for gliding, climbing. The Midwest cages are durable and heavy duty. There are cheaper cages but they are made of much thinner material, the bars are thinner and may break if not handled with care over time. The powder coating may wear off and I am told exposed bars can cause fatal zinc poisoning if chewed on according to some sources (I have no idea how to verify this claim). Be sure to check with other squirrel keepers when choosing an enclosure. Midwest critter nation is the most frequently used cage at the time of writing. Another option is to make a cage with wood and hardware cloth. These cages will likely be heaver and harder to move around than Midwest cages, but they can be built even larger. If going this route, an advantage would be to make a cage so large you could walk into it and interact with the squirrels. Keep in mind squirrels chew on wood, so any wood not covered in hardware cloth is potentially going to be chewed on. Speaking with a breeder who houses his animals outside, I was told that there were also initially issues with snakes getting into the cages and eating squirrels, so you'll have to make sure there is no way for mice, rats, or snakes to get in, as well as that no medium to large mammals can open doors or force their way in looking for food if keeping squirrels outside. Some people use a set of double doors on the entry so that if an animal does get past one door when entering the enclosure, they are still trapped inside a second area. Use care when closing any doors to make sure a squirrel is not on or in the doorway, and care when opening doors that a squirrel will not fly out immediately. Southern Flying squirrels are mouse sized animals, so even a small gap will allow for escape, and the hardware cloth has to be carefully placed so not sharp edges remain exposed. If you're not very handy, it will be much easier to purchase an enclosure. I have seen some cages zip tied together for sugar gliders. I would not recommend this at all. Squirrels can easily chew through zip ties and such cages are poorly designed. A small pet carrier and fleece sack will also be very useful for initially bringing your squirrel home and transporting to vet visits. For controlling the photoperiod, a Kasa smartplug like this one can be set to your sunrise and sunset (requires wifi connection to the Internet). Most commercial light controllers are set to operate in the opposite fashion, turning the lights on at sunset rather than off, so the Kasa smartplug is very useful as it can turn the lights off at sunset and back on at sunrise.
Dealing with waste
You will need to decide how to deal with waste. The two typical options are to leave the bars exposed and let the wastes fall through into a litter pan with carefresh small animal bedding under the enclosure or to use a covering on the bottom bars and shelves. Either option works well. There are a number of individuals who make covers for the critter nation shelves and bottoms. I would recommend two sets, so that while one is being washed, the other can be placed into the cage. Without the covers the plastic pans will be chewed up very quickly. I recommend the envelope style covers as the snap on covers are easier for the squirrels to work their way under. If you're letting the waste fall through, the carefresh can simply be replaced every couple of days and the bars cleaned off for any residue remaining, If you're using the coverings, you'll want to get a small, quiet handheld sweeper and sweep up the droppings daily. The covers will need be washed every few days. Squirrels can be potty trained to a certain degree. The easiest way is to place a litter pan with carefresh bedding where they are already going to be bathroom. These litter pan's are made to attach to the corner of the cage and have a coated wire set of bars that keeps the animal from coming into direct contact with the bedding. Squirrels also tend to use the bathroom while running in their wheel, so if using a bottom cover, I would recommend adding some small strips of material under the wheel that can be replaced and washed more frequently. I have also found they like to use sugar glider corner hammocks as litter bins.
Providing water
Large, open bowls are not good with flying squirrels. They have been known to drown in open containers and toilets (keeping the lid closed is a good idea as escapes can happen and consider building a ladder in case it is left open by mistake). Squirrels can drink from small vessels of water. Squirrels will also use hanging water bottles made for small animals. I use Lixit glass water bottles like this one. It is possible for the metal balls of those devices to stick, so if using the hanging water bottles, I would always provide two and test them regularly with your finger tip to make sure they are providing water. In "Caring for your flying squirrel", author Anne B. Miller recommends using a water silo or water tube made for hamsters. However, in reading reviews of those devices, I found similar complaints to the ball typed types with regards to water leaking or not releasing at all. I've had two brand new ball tip water bottles not work right out of the box, so do not assume because it's new it is functional. When you rub the ball with your dry finger tip you should feel water droplets come out and see air bubbles rising. The water should be changed every 24 hours to prevent bacteria from building up. Be careful of any water vessels that have a door on top (some bird watering devices) - flying squirrels can open those doors! Such a vessel containing device would have to be on the outside of the cage.
Toys, houses, and decoration
Most of my current squirrels use a wheel nightly. Most wheels on the market are not safe for squirrels and can cause direct harm or issues over time from being the wrong size. The wheel I am currently using and recommending is the Velociraptor Type R with mesh and cage mount for horizontal bars . The rat version uses metal rather than plastic tracks which means it is chew proof and less likely for feces to stick to it. I recommend mounting it directly to the cage with a PVC cage mount (you purchase this with the wheel and it attaches with hooks and zip ties - pull the zip ties tight leaving no gap that a squirrels foot can be caught in). You should leave 5 fingers of space around all sides, under, and above the wheel to prevent injury. It is best to provide two houses. These can be wooden boxes with a hole in them similar to bird houses which are attached securely to the cage or fleece cubes that attach to the ceiling of the cage. Cut up sections of fleece will allow them to stuff their houses to their needs. As mentioned earlier, squirrels like to chew on wood, so putting in some pieces of pesticide free apple wood, which you can gather or purchase, a piece of deer antler, and a piece of cuttlebone are good ideas. These are actually fake cuttlebones on the market that are concoctions of calcium glued together. I would not recommend those at all. If using cuttlebone, please make sure to purchase authentic products. Not all woods are safe, so please consult lists of safe woods for squirrels. You can purchase apple wood sticks or collect Hickory and other safe woods from pesticide free areas (check for ticks and harmful insects). Not all tree branches, leaves, and buds are safe, so be sure to do some research first. There are also fleece tunnels, hammocks, and so on that will provide additional enrichment. Not all sewing techniques are safe. There are groups that check for safe sewing for sugar gliders. I suggest consulting their lists before deciding on a vendor.
Feeding
Adult, weaned squirrels are easy to feed. However, they need to be fed a proper diet or diseases such as MBD are likely to occur. The most important aspect of their diet is that they are eating a block suitable for squirrels. Mouse and rat diets are suitable. Teklad and Mazuri are good brands. Some people also offer some Zupreem Monkey biscuits. In addition to the dried rodent blocks, many people have found Henry's healthy blocks or Henry's picky blocks to be useful. Squirrels will sometimes not eat enough blocks (this should be 75-80% of their diet), so Henry's frozen blocks can be given to help ensure proper nutrition. The Henry's blocks are kept frozen and thawed just before feeding. I feed one Henry's squirrel block per flying squirrel per day along with Mazuri Mouse and Rat diet (you can find small bags at pet stores). In deciding what vegetables to feed, I suggest you consult this list created by Henry's pets. Thoroughly wash all fruits and vegetables before feeding. Remember that over-supplementing can be just as bad as under-supplementing, so if you're sure they are already eating their Henry's block daily and they have access to Mazuri blocks, you won't need to provide additional vitamins or supplementation. If you feed too many nuts, the squirrels are likely to not eat their blocks. However, squirrels can have a few nuts. I like to use shelled nuts so they wear their teeth down. Hazelnuts are small, hard, and useful for this purpose. There are reports of problems from feeding too many Brazil nuts, so I do not need them at all. All nuts fed should be in good condition and stored properly, as molds (some fatal) and other disease can develop in nuts with damaged shells, old, or improperly stored. If collecting walnuts or hickory nuts, I would suggest taking them directly off of the trees and not off the ground, inspecting them for insect damage. People have lost squirrels from acorns that were moldy inside. On the other hand, Art of TN Flyers told me that he collects acorns without issue by taking them directly off the trees and making sure it's not their only source of food.
If you have a young flying squirrel that is not yet weaned, it is a little more complicated. You will need a Miracle nipple tip, a 1/2ml to 1ml O-ring syringe (do not use a larger syringe, much of the information you will find pertains to grey squirrels which are much larger), and you will need a milk replacer formula such as Fox Valley for squirrels 4 weeks and older. Another breeder I spoke with uses meyenberg whole powdered goat milk (available at Walmart) which is human grade and mixes it at 1 part formula to 2 parts water with good success. Since the majority of rehabbers are using fox valley, I have chosen to use that. You can find these supplies at Henry's pets or Chris's Squirrels. Never use cow's milk with baby animals. If you have a squirrel younger than 4 weeks old, consult a wildlife rehabber or the squirrel board forum for assistance. It is important to feed only the correct amount, to never feed too quickly as this will cause aspiration which can kill the animal or lead to respiratory infections. As mentioned earlier, most of the advice on the Internet will be geared toward grey squirrels. The syringes will be too big, the amounts will be far too much, and the formula will be fed too fast for a tiny flying squirrel in comparison. It is critical that any resource you reference is specific to flying squirrels in regards to the amounts fed. The milk replacer needs to be made and replaced every couple of days, must be kept refrigerated, and should always be at least a few hours old before being used. It must be thoroughly mixed with warm (but not boiling) water and stored in an air tight container in a refrigerator. I use a fork to thoroughly mix the ingredients and allow them to settle for a minimum of four hours and preferably overnight before use (studies show the particles continue to mix over time). Small amounts are then removed and heated as needed just prior to use. The formula should be warm but not hot before use. I have asked various wildlife rehabbers about temperature and I've gotten anywhere from 95F to the highest anyone has told me 120F degrees. I warm the milk replacer in water around 110F. I think it is safe to say warm but not hot is a good measure to shoot for so I use a temp gun as well as testing the warmth against my skin. I will refer you to experienced wildlife rehabbers for more detailed information on that. If too hot, it could burn the animals delicate mouth, but if too cold they may not be enticed to consume the required amounts of milk replacer. Here is a handy chart to help you determine how much to feed a southern flying squirrel based on it's weight (a gram accurate kitchen scale is essential, you have to weigh young squirrels often). Since the squirrel board feeding cheat sheet is based on weight, it also works for flying squirrels. You want to feed at an upward angle and never with the animal on it's back or at an downward angle, see this video of a grey squirrel being fed (note the syringe is way, way too large for a flying squirrel). Use a good quality o-Ring syringe which won't stick like cheap ones and never try to force material out of the syringe while the animal is feeding (will result in a large release). Flying squirrels will lap the milk off the end of the syringe, they shouldn't suck the whole nipple in as in that video. Additional information about raising baby squirrels can be found here (ignore the amounts to feed, that is for grey squirrels) and on the squirrel board forum. Again unless a resource specifically mentions flying squirrels, it will be for grey squirrels which are much larger. Very young squirrels will also need stimulation to go to the bathroom (see squirrel board forums for more information on this). Check with the breeder to find out if the animal is still requiring stimulation. You can find videos demonstrating this, but essentually you rub their genitial region with a Qtip with warm water or petrolium jelly. You can also use a cotton ball dipped in warm water and ringed out. Be sure to dry the squirrel before putting it back away. Additional information on raising flying squirrels can be found here. Finally, if the squirrel is less than 6-7 weeks old it would also require access to a heat source. I use a 10 gallon tank with a screen cover, a no shut-off heating pad under half of it, a thermostat probe between the bottom of the glass and heatpad secured with shipping tape, an old tshirt on the bottom, and layers of cut up fleece strips with another tshirt on top. If the young squirrels want to be warmer. they can burrow down and if they want to be cooler they will stay toward the top or move to the unheated end. As you can see, raising a flying squirrel that is not yet weaned is a little bit complicated. Once you've done it once, it is very simple, but gathering all of the initial information and making sure you understand it, is a little bit tricky. A good idea would be to volunteer to help a local wildlife society or rehabber in raising orphaned wildlife. You would be gaining skills and knowledge and contributing to a good cause at the same time. You would then feel far more confident in raising your young squirrel, but it is not so difficult that you cannot learn it on your own as long as you've done proper research. Additionally, there are non-releasable and adult flying squirrels that need new homes from time to time, bypassing this process.
Safely interacting with your squirrel
You'll need to make your home as squirrel proof as possible in case of escape. Most importantly, you'll need to make the room you plan on interacting with them in extremely squirrel proof. All holes in walls, around heating pipes, etc should be sealed off. Stuffing steel wool or using specific chew proof mesh will keep squirrels from disappearing into those holes and keep mice (which carry diseases transmittable to both humans and squirrels) out. It's a good idea to seal off any such places to keep mice out of your home or from moving about your home in any event. A pool noodle can be fitted underneath the door to make escape more difficult. Be careful of opening and closing doors when a squirrel is out, they can jump in the way of the door closing very quickly. All electrical cords need to be kept away from squirrels and squirrel cages (they like to chew on wires). All toilet bowls should be kept closed as flying squirrels can easily drown. A ladder can also be placed in the toilet. A mosquito popup net tent made from non-treated materials is a much easier way to interact with the squirrels. They can run inside the tent and climb and jump without fear of escape as the tents zip closed.
Bonding
It is important to spend time safely interacting with your squirrel to develop a bond with them. Do not overlook the importance of the bonding process. The difference between a squirrel that will climb in your hand and allow itself to be petted and one that will leap away from you and be difficult to get back into its cage comes down to this process. This is why most breeders separate the young from the mother before they are fully weaned. However, that alone is not sufficient. Even if you obtain the squirrel at 5 to 7 weeks old, you will still need to spend time with it. I would recommend using both a tent and a bonding pouch. You can sit in the tent during daylight hours and let the squirrel climb inside your shirt. climb onto your hand, etc, and at night they become much more active as the weeks go on. I also typically have brief interactions, petting them and letting them climb on my hand for a moment, during routine cage maintenance. Of course, they need sleep and time left alone, too, but I interact with them daily.
I hope this helps jump start those who wish to keep flying squirrels as pets. Again, I am not an expert on these animals and this guide should only be a starting place in your research. I would recommend spending some time on the squirrel board forums and obtaining the book "Caring for your Flying Squirrel" by Anne B. Miller. S&S Exotics had some copies of the book when I last checked. Purchase flying squirrels from reputable breeders and seek their advice on how to house and care for your new pet. Flying squirrels, much like reptiles, can make great pets but only if you invest the time into the proper research before you obtain them.